H E L S I N K I — Roaming with Roth

How did we decide to come to Helsinki? It was not exactly an afterthought, although it was not primary on our travel bucket list. In fact our dear friends, who were to be in Berlin, asked if we would be interested in joining them in Finland because they had never been, and did our schedule permit a meetup. Our mutual interests were in Design and Architecture, and we each heard about the exceptional and quality design, period architecture and contemporary sculpture in Helsinki. So, here we are.

A lovely residential street off a square

A typical commercial boulevard in Helsinki

A lovely building with a charming balcony

The architecture is a mix of Russian Neo-Classicism to Art Deco

On the other hand, I was asked just today if I would return to Helsinki, and I responded in the negative. Still, Helsinki is easy to overlook or dismiss. In fact, these last few days have been filled with architectural delights, beautiful streets and avenues, a peninsula harbor, an active market square, a lively esplanade, two exceptional ‘tourist’ sites, and a singularly great meal.

The interior domes of Uspenskii Cathedral

“We are travelers, not tourists.”
Which brings me to a larger question: “Why do Adele and I travel in the first place”? I use the above standard ‘line’ as a response to people’s inquiries that quickly conveys our real interests in culture and history, and our desire for personal contact and intimate interactions as opposed to rushing to and from place to place, or sites hopping and “On and Off” tours with indifferent guides. Our real wish is to feel absorbed by and integrated with our surroundings; to engage in dialog and conversations; to discover commonalities, and enjoy our distinctions. In all fairness, Adele and I are blessed and privileged to be able to spend this time moving about the world. No doubt.

The bus loads of people on one side of the Sibelius Monument

A great example of this syndrome, (and I bring to your attention only one of many examples), was our visit to the Sibelius Monument in the northwest sector of the city. The structure is a memorial to Jean Sibelius, a Finnish composer who lived during the latter half of the 19th century and first half of the 20th century. The structure is comprised of 600 hollow steel pipes welded together in a wave-like pattern. And, although it doesn’t have a front or back, one side faces the park entrance where tourist buses line up to unload dozens of visitors to the monument at a single dump.

As we were observing and admiring the intricacies of design, Adele said, “Let’s go around to the other side. There’s no one there”. So, we looped around to the rear of the sculpture (which is not the rear) to take a look from this alternate vantage point and minus the encumbrance of the crowd. And, indeed, there was literally not a single person on that side. The tourists disembarked from their buses, walked to the monument, took their pictures, roamed from side to side, peered from underneath…and walked back to waiting transportation, never going around to the other side. It would be comical were it not so sad.

The ‘side too far’ for the tourists at the Sibelius Monument

Another dear, warm, and insightful friend had suggested that we bring forth our intention, that we possess the opportunity to share a vital part of ourselves - our love and concern for the well-being of all - as a core mission. To be examples of a solution to the negativity, venality, coarseness and false pride manifest in the world. To model generosity, kindness, openness, availability, vulnerability. To create lines of communication without judgments or bias or opinions.

At first, even the suggestion felt rudely ‘philanthropic’, more than slightly arrogant, and tinged with misplaced altruism. To presume that we two might be ‘missionaries’ of peace and love and harmony, some kind of vessels for change, felt incredulous. In light of our checkered pasts, in the face of our personal struggles, ‘couple troubles’, and discord, I felt the weight of my former self, my foolish mistakes and misguided behavior. How could I represent anything other than myself, as I am currently, in this moment? How is a message conveyed such that strangers, not at all dissimilar to ourselves, come away with value other than their having met two decent folk, amongst the throngs.

The answers came to me in a rather pedestrian manner - no fireworks; no fanfare. Like a D-U-H! It is a result of our history. It is the outcome of the ‘inside’ work we have done, both alone and mutually. It is because we live our curiousity and inquiry. (As Rainer Maria Rilke advised a young student to “Live the questions”.) It is as a result of our being able to be in this moment, in this ‘NOW’ that we can convey, without preaching or sermonizing, our LOVE. We have worked really hard at this.

We love you all.