COPENHAGEN: Culture Cool - Part 2

Our apartment is around the corner from Rosenborg Castle surrounded by lush tree-lined gardens. On our first sojourn, on our way to The Little Mermaid, we detoured to walk through the gardens and lawn, smell the flowers, and ‘people watch. With the showpiece 16th century castle at one end, the streets encircling the other three sides are lined with stately mansions. The rich and the Royal abound. But this is the public’s park and is used heavily and respectfully by all. It is immaculate.

Our next and first full day, Adele and I took a tour of Copenhagen with a guide that had more than a mild penchant for sarcasm. He was scathing toward Chinese tourists; scoffed at Floridians; told everyone that “if the Germans have already left…you’re late”; saw the future for Brits and it was ‘Brexitly’ bleak; saving his most humorous insults for the Swedes who with the Danes have posed as each other’s vindictively comic foils for hundreds of years. Nonetheless, he was encyclopedic in knowledge - history; social norms and practices; with a touch of religion, music and ‘foodie’ psychology thrown in for good measure.

Yet, what impacted us the most was his detailed analytics of Danish society. I paraphrase here: “Americans love to call Danes Socialists, but we are anything but…even more ‘capatistic’ than the States.” Yes, it is true that this young man pays 70% of his earnings to the government. But, here is what society receives in return. A guaranteed income. Guaranteed wages if you are unemployed. Free education. (Danes typically speak three languages - Danish, English…and a third) Free health care as part of one of the best systems in the world. Mandatory paid leave for both mothers and fathers upon the birth of a child. Six weeks annual, mandatory vacation. Aside from rent, these represents the greatest costs to individuals in all societies.

“That’s crazy”, you say? In fact, it is capitalistic, regenerative…and Democratic. The rationale, (hold on to your seats and buckle up, you Conservatives) is that “a healthy and happy employee is productive and loyal”. Given the opportunity, all people want to work and contribute. A successful wage earner is not resentful of someone else earning more. Those whose earnings allow them privileges, do not look down upon those whose contributions are otherwise and vital to the whole. The unemployed are supported so that as soon as the economic downturn corrects and hiring starts, they can be employed without suffering the costs of negative economic conditions for which no one has responsibility. Meanwhile, their buying power keeps the economy thriving. Employees want their people back because they are of value to the company. The current unemployment rate in Denmark is 3.8% as Denmark is one of the most stable economies in the world. This economy works. People live as equals because they are viewed equally…not according to income, status, or reputation. By right. As Danes.

As an example, our apartment host was supposed to meet us upon our arrival. In his place, his charming wife came to the door. She explained that he had some pains and was discovered to have a ruptured appendix. He was admitted to the hospital, had the procedure within 24 hours, and emailed Adele and I later in the day to ensure that we were comfortable. How’s that for ‘Socialism’.

No doubt, Denmark is having a nationalistic wave of anti-immigration and right-wing protests. On the other hand, Denmark has an enlightened history best described by the words from the diary of Christian X, King of Denmark, enshrined during the Nazi occupation: “The Jews are a part of the Danish nation. We have no Jewish problem in our country because we never had an inferiority complex in relation to the Jews. If the Jews are forced to wear the yellow Star, I and my whole family shall wear it as a badge of honor.” This was not ever required of the Danes, despite the folklore. His stand was still an extraordinarily courageous act.

A Segment Photo of a Sculpture by Bertel Thorvaldsen at Thorvaldsen Museum