Gengenbach — Roaming with Roth

Have you ever awakened to find yourself in a "fairy tale" reality? This was what happened last year when Adele and I, with our friends Howard and Lily, arrived in Gengenbach, Germany. We parked in the local parking area, walked through a narrow lane leading into town, turned the corner and as if by the stroke of a wand, were facing this most picturesque, quaint and traditional town center. On all sides were bewitching, colorful, half-timbered structures. Streets were lined with cafes and restaurants. People were milling about or sitting drinking Eiskaffe (coffee with ice cream) in tall, graceful glasses, or enjoying a cold 'pils' with their meal.

On our first 'trek' from our apartment, we chose to hike the "artistweg" (artist's way) or a walk through the upper hillside vineyards. Along the path are structural frames that hold the works of local artists and their interpretations of vineyard life and the importance and influence of wine on the local economy.

*A view of Gengenbach from our vineyard walk.*

"Jakobschapelle" at the top of the vineyards.

We replicated that walk again this year on our first hike. The hike through the vineyards is stunning. There is an order to vineyards that is exquisitely geometric, sympathetic and peaceful. Of course, in August, the grapes are approaching maturity and hang from the vines in dense bunches in an assortment of colors - pale sea green, burnt umber and burgundy - depending upon their varietal. Our hosts are grape producers and own the vineyards just up the hill from where we stay. It is a hard life. Janina and Tomas are either caring for their apartments or lovingly attending to their vineyards. They groom the vines, prune the grapes and then pick at harvest. When they are not caring for their vineyards, they are bi-monthly, holding an event for the local tourist association that includes the preparation of a German-style 'pizza'-like delicacy with cheese and local ham. This event is attended by literally hundreds of people, mostly locals, who come to eat and share in the united purpose of assisting local residents.

On our second day, we were advised that there was to be another annual event that we missed the first year, which has a long name with lots of consonants strung together and a paucity of vowels. So, don't expect to see its name in writing. Suffice it to say that we entered town early on this day to get a good vantage point for viewing the presentation portion of the 'competition'. What is being judged are what I will call "bouquets of wild herbs and flowers". But, these bouquets were, here and there, flung over one's shoulder or borne by both arms or hoisted by two bearers, so large and weighty were the creations. The judging determines who has made the most beautiful of these arrangements. And, please note the traditional dress worn by the participants.

*A "giant-sized" version of the wild herb bouquets...*

...and a "hand-held", more normal-sized bouquet.

Here is a part of the total submissions for the competition. Now, if this doesn't 'ring your chimes' than most certainly the "Alpenhorn" concert is for you. These long, 3.5 meter horns are traditional throughout the Bavarian, Austrian, Swiss an… — *Here is a part of the total submissions for the competition.*
Now, if this doesn't 'ring your chimes' than most certainly the "Alpenhorn" concert is for you. These long, 3.5 meter horns are traditional throughout the Bavarian, Austrian, Swiss and French Alps. Their sound is what you would imagine a Basset Hound in heat to sound like - deep, resonant and reverberatory. Can you imagine being witness to a wild herb bouquet competition as well as an Alpenhorn concert all in one day? I know what you're thinking. "Honey, buy the plane tickets and pack your bags. We're flying to Gengenbach." Or, maybe that nothing I've posted yet compares with this for excitement. But, in all honesty, it was so sweet, charming, locally authentic and disarmingly traditional that we could not help but feel glad to be there to experience these happenings.

Look at our sweet town of Gengenbach.

A walk along the river Kinzig.

A hike from Haslach.

Gengenbach is under one hours drive to Strasbourg, France. Adele and I knew we were going to drive at some point to France, where we spent our extended honeymoon. But, our love for the countryside made us choose to forego a visit to Strasbourg, rather to return to the small, charming, medieval wine-producing towns in and around Colmar - Bergheim, Ribeauville, Riquewihr, Turckheim and Equisheim.

These villages possess a different appeal than Germany. More ancient in appearance, one can almost hear the hoofbeats of clamoring horses on the cobblestones as you approach the gates and arches leading into town. I imagine The Three Musketeers doing battle, swordsmen's clanking metal against metal, rapiers zinging through the air. You can sense the history in the rutted roads and clapboard structures and envision cobblestone alleys laden with sanguine fluids the color of claret. Hillsides are strewn with half-fallen castles or monasteries, littered with the litany of battles and wars: some in the name of land; some in the name of King; most, in the name of God.

Bergheim

Somewhat of a 'francophile', I have a special affinity for France ever since my first visit when I was sixteen. I worked on a Merchant Marine ship during a summer cruise and when we landed in Villefranche, @12 Km from Nice, I had a kind of past life experience stepping onto the soil. It sent shock waves through me. It's impact has influenced many of my life choices and experiences.

Turckheim

Equisheim

Yesterday, Adele and I spent the day in Baden-Baden, known for it famous Caracalla Therme or "public baths". In Germany, in literally hundreds of "bads" or spa towns throughout the country that are designated as possessing some healthy aspect - waters, air, special environment - are offered varying levels of spa and healing centers available to the public. As an example, the Caracalla Therme with over 12,000 square feet of pools, sauna and steam, costs 1.5 hour (15e), 2 hour (16e), 3 hour (19e) or all-day (23e). These facilities are an expression of the governments support of general health regimens that ultimately are cheaper for the government than the medical model of "curing what ails you".

We opted, however, to return to Friedrichsbad, next door to the Caracalla Therme, because it is less attended, has 'treatment' areas and specialists and a 17 station "tour" through the facility. When one enters you are handed a sheet to, well, to do with as you wish. Most don't do anything with it since the first station is a shower before entering the the second station sauna. Still, first-timers you observe, cover themselves on the way to the showers, and one minute later drop the sheet to shower, From then on you are totally nude. This is why I bring up the 'therme' in the first place.

I have observed that while Europeans maintain "traditions" that respect history they, societally, live a more secular, egalitarian and socially liberal life. While, in the West (read America), we reverse that, rejecting tradition, yet espousing religion and religious causes, that socially cleave us as a people in some assertion of conservative values. The practice of nude bathing could never happen here in America. We are still quite young, immature, naive and opinionated. I have been, throughout my life, in several of these types of facilities passing through in wonderment at what our 'advanced' society does to "strip" us of our authenticity and self-respect in the name of false modesty and provincialism.